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Reviews

Chicken Kyiv.
14/20

Ukrainian comfort foods get the star treatment at this feel-good Chippendale restaurant

Chicken Kyiv, borscht, dumplings and cabbage rolls all get an update at social enterprise Kyiv Social.

  • Terry Durack
Japanese curry scrambled egg muffin with Kewpie mayo.

Skip the snooze button for this curried egg muffin that ‘lights up your brain’

Early birds are rewarded with “mentally healthy food” at this buzzy north shore cafe.

  • Lee Tran Lam
Funda ramyun with crumbled beef bulgogi and a fried egg.
14.5/20

Loud, ambitious, high-energy: Funda puts the fun into funky Korean food

This loud and high-energy venue boasts serious cooking talent, with chefs pooling experience from Tetsuya’s, Supernormal and Michelin-starred kitchens.

  • Terry Durack
Chef Omar Hsu at his counter.

These under-the-radar restaurants might not score a hat, but the critics can’t get enough of them

From a fun BYO diner to food court favourites, these are the SMH Good Food Guide Critics’ Picks that did not get a hat, but are always a hit.

  • Callan Boys and Good Food Guide Reviewers
Plain croissant.

The Rozelle bakery whose luscious bread, pastries and sausage rolls always sell out in minutes

Gleaming croissants, metre-long focaccia, plate-sized choc-chip biscuits and fancy fairy bread attract carb lovers from all over to Fabbrica Bread Shop.

  • Lenny Ann Low
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Makgeolli chicken wings.
13/20

The Evergreen’s Korean fried chicken wings put the happy back into happy hour

Korean fusion diner The Evergreen is a little more ambitious than your favourite Chatty noodle or dumpling shop.

  • Terry Durack
Ravioles du dauphine.

This ‘relaxed gem of a place’ wears its heart on its Barbra Streisand record sleeve

Babs, a female-led collaborative chef pop-up, has arrived at its first semi-permanent venue, at the former Saga site.

  • Lenny Ann Low
Go-to dish: Open lasagne with yellowfin tuna, king prawns and radicchio.
14.5/20

‘This lasagne is one of the most compelling dishes I’ve eaten this year’

My default reaction to seafood lasagne was: Eww. Gross. No, thanks. But Noi’s rich and “beefy” version is a revelation, writes Callan Boys.

  • Callan Boys
The husband and wife team behind Boston Doughnuts, Ahmed Taha and Marwa Yassine.

Worth a 12-hour drive: Venture west to discover Sydney’s best doughnuts

The suburban doughnut shops creating a craze for the sugar-glazed. PLUS: We round-up Sydney’s top 10 dough-based treats.

  • Bianca Hrovat
Clockwise from top left: Clams casino, crumpets and Ora King salmon gravalax at Bistro George in Sydney.
Good Food hat15/20

Jacksons on George is back, and it has a hat (yes, you read that correctly)

Forget the grungy Sydney pub of decades past. The new J-on-G is an architectural marvel with an opulent city bistro to match.

  • Terry Durack